You might be thinking about anything between ENERGY STAR® rated versus standard-efficiency brand names when choosing your new air conditioner. But there’s a lot more to consider before you make your final decision. Selecting the right size and type of air conditioner for your home depends on your cooling load, duct system, insulation levels, energy-saving goals and long-term operating costs. The system you choose today should keep your family comfortable – and your wallet happy – for the next 15 or 20 years.
Let’s break it down.
Types of Air Conditioners to Choose From
Central Split
Central air conditioners are the most popular type of whole-home system. They consist of an outdoor condenser and indoor evaporator coil, which connect to your home’s duct system. Residential units typically range from 1.5 tons to 5 tons of capacity. SEER ratings usually range from 13 or higher.
A great option if your home has ducts and you need cooling power throughout your home.
Ductless Mini-Split
Ductless mini-splits have individual indoor heads that hook up to an outdoor compressor unit. Indoor heads typically range from 6,000 BTU to 18,000 BTU. Many systems boast SEER ratings of 20 or greater.
Choose this style if you have an additional, older home without ducts or want to zone your space.
Heat Pump
Heat pumps can heat and cool your home. Newer cold-climate heat pumps can still heat efficiently when temps drop below 0°F. Expect efficiency levels on par with high-SEER central air conditioners.
Pick this if you want one machine to control your home’s comfort year-round.
Window and Portable Units
Window and portable air conditioners are inexpensive ways to cool a room. But they aren’t very efficient when used as whole-home cooling systems and tend to be louder than others on this list.
Don’t Buy a System That Is Too Big or Too Small
Two of the most expensive mistakes you can make when purchasing a new air conditioner are oversizing and undersizing your equipment.
If your system is too big, it will short-cycle (turn on and off too much). This creates humidity problems, increases wear on the system components and decreases your comfort.
If your system is too small, it will run constantly on hot days and struggle to maintain your thermostat’s set temperature.
Hand calculations and online sizing calculators are notoriously inaccurate. The only correct way to size an air conditioner is by performing a Manual J load calculation. This process takes into account:
• Home square footage
• Ceiling heights
• Insulation levels
• Window size and direction
• Home occupancy
• Climate zone
Jumping right to equipment selection because you know the square footage of your home is a surefire way to get it wrong. Don’t work with a contractor that guesses or skips this step altogether. Also be wary of contractors who automatically match your old system’s size without performing a new load calculation.
Understanding SEER and EER Ratings
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, or SEER, measures cooling efficiency over an entire season. The higher the SEER rating, the less energy your air conditioner will consume.
Increasing your home’s SEER from 10 to 16 can cut your cooling energy use by more than one-third. Keep in mind, however, that higher SEER air conditioners will cost more initially.
The Energy Efficiency Ratio, or EER, measures how efficiently your air conditioner will operate when the outdoor temperature is at its highest. If you live in an area with extremely hot summers, you may want to consider this rating as well.
Since ENERGY STAR certification started, systems have become more efficient. ENERGY STAR certified air conditioners use 10 percent to 20 percent less energy than their minimum-efficiency counterparts. Additionally, some utility providers require installations to be Energy Star certified in order to qualify for their rebate programs.
Have Your Ductwork and Insulation Checked
Did you know leaky ducts can account for 20 to 30 percent of wasted air? If your ducts are restricted, leaky or undersized, even the highest efficiency air conditioner will seem like it’s underperforming.
Consider having your ductwork inspected before your air conditioner is installed. If ductwork issues are discovered, consider having your ducts sealed. You should also have your attic insulation and air sealing checked. Adding insulation may allow you to downsize your equipment and decrease your operating costs.
Manufacturer isn’t everything. In fact, how your air conditioner is installed matters more.
Professional air conditioner installation should include:
• Proper refrigerant charge
• Airflow and static pressure checks
• Electromechanical connection tightness
• Obtaining necessary permits and scheduling inspections
• Keeping your manufacturer’s warranty intact
If these things aren’t done, you could be in for higher energy bills, poor performance, and a voided warranty. Too little or too much refrigerant can lower your system’s efficiency by 5 percent and reduce compressor life by up to 20 percent.
Speaking of warranties, don’t forget to maintain your equipment once your new air conditioner is installed. Read your manufacturer’s warranty carefully. Many require you to register your equipment and provide proof of annual maintenance to keep your full 10-year warranty.
If something goes wrong with your system that’s not covered by warranty, expect to pay $150 to $350 per hour for professional repair services.
Be sure to work with a contractor who is licensed and insured. Ask prospective contractors for their load calculations and paid proposals. Your installer should also be able to confirm you’ll be getting the proper permits.
Placement and Noise Levels Also Matter
The average outdoor air conditioner runs at about 60 to 75 decibels. If noise is a concern, find an air conditioner with a sound rating below 70 dB.
Make sure your outdoor unit will:
• Have 12 to 24 inches of clearance (clear airspace) on each side
• Have enough space above it to allow air to freely move
• Be accessible for service
• Sit above potential flood levels
Cost Isn’t Everything Either
Expect central air conditioner installation costs to range from:
• Standard central AC: $3,000 – $6,000
• High-efficiency AC: $7,000 – $14,000
• Ductwork replacement/additions: $1,000 – $5,000
• Permits and inspections: Varies
Keep in mind, higher efficiency units aren’t cheap. However, installing a high-efficiency air conditioner could save you 20 to 35 percent on your monthly energy bills, depending on your usage.
When budgeting for a new air conditioner, look beyond the sticker price. Account for how much it will cost to operate your equipment over the next 15 or 20 years.
Look for Rebates and Incentives
From time to time, your utility provider may offer monetary incentives for installing high-efficiency air conditioners. Incentives usually range from a couple hundred dollars to upwards of $1,000.
You might also qualify for:
• Manufacturer incentives
• Low or no interest financing
• Tax incentives for energy-efficient equipment
Contact your utility provider before your air conditioner is installed to ensure you qualify for their rebates. Also, confirm your chosen contractor will provide you with the necessary documentation.
Shop Smart for Your Next Air Conditioner
When the time comes to shop for your new air conditioner, remember these tips:
• Don’t go buy an air conditioner until you get a proper load calculation.
• Make sure your ductwork is sealed and insulated.
• Compare SEER ratings and look for Energy Star qualified models.
• Verify your contractor provides proper licensing and permits for the job.
• Read your warranty and make a plan to service your equipment yearly.
Looking for help finding the right size and type of air conditioner for your home? Let the pros at Salmon HVAC take care of it. We’ll ensure your new AC is properly sized, installed, and optimized for peak performance starting day one.
FAQ
Q1: How do I know what size air conditioner I need?
A: Performing a Manual J load calculation will tell you the proper size air conditioner for your home. Load calculations take many factors of your home into account.
Q2: Is it worth it to get a higher SEER AC?
A: High-SEER ACs use less energy, but how much you save on your electric bills depends on your local electricity rates and how much you use your air conditioner.
Q3: Should I replace my ductwork when I install my new AC?
A: If your ducts are leaky, too small, or aren’t insulated, it might be worth your while to repair or replace them.
Q4: Do I need a permit to install a new air conditioner?
A: In most areas, permits and inspections are required for air conditioner installation. Your contractor should know this and take care of it for you.
Q5:How often should I service my new AC?
At a minimum, you should have your air conditioner tuned-up once a year. Annual maintenance visits keep you energy efficient, covered by your manufacturer’s warranty and system running longer.